Flashback Beauty Friday 70: Rouge Dior Lipstick History

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Quite a picture heavy post for you this time as I'm looking back on the history of Dior Rouge lipstick packaging. Last week I shared the No7 Spring 2009 Petal palettes, if you missed that.

So, Christian Dior began working on producing a lipstick in the late 40's, after a desire to dress women, literally, from head to toe and by 1950, he launched his first.  This limited edition item was gifted to the most loyal clients of his boutique on Avenue Montaigne in Paris, before finally being sold in 1953.  The original lipsticks were like works of art; a beautiful, obelisk shape that looked impressive on your dressing table with a more practical lid for carrying in your handbag. The first Rouge Dior lipsticks were refillable, something that current Creative Director, Peter Philips, has revisited (but more on that later). I have many packaging variations from the past 30 years, starting with this hexagonal shaped one, which I believe existed in the 80's and 90's. The brand back then was known as "Christian Dior", later dropped to just "Dior".  The case is split in half, with the base a navy blue and the lid a slightly lighter blue. Each panel is edged in gold with the branding engraved on the side. The one I have here is Rouge Transparent, Glossy Lipstick in shade 003 Sheer Pansy. I think mine was more from the early 2000's, I certainly wasn't buying Dior or any lipstick aged 9 and under and I don't think I got it in the 90's as a teenager either.

In similar packaging is the next one, which instead of using two colours for the base and lid, used alternate shades on each of the panels (lid and base). The finish of this casing was mirrored metallic, still edged with gold but with "Dior" on the side and "CD" on the end of the lid. You can either match up the colours on the lid and base or have opposing colours together. I have a couple of these Dior Rouge; 974 Bold Claret and 865 Ruby, which actually contained a hexagon shaped bullet and this red lipstick is covered in fine glitter. It took me a lot of courage to begin using this one back in the day, as it had such a beautiful finish and shape.

The Rouge Dior lipstick line has been updated many times over the decades and the next one is quite different to those earlier editions. The case was now oblong with black front and back and metallic blue sides. The silver band showing between the lid and base was lowered and engraved with "Dior" front and back, with silver "CD" engraved on the top of the lid. The black sections bare the engraved "Cannage" pattern; top-stitching regularly used decoratively to quilt Dior leather goods such as handbags (i.e. the iconic "Lady Dior") and purses.  This pattern was originally on chairs used to welcome customers to the 1947 "New Look" fashion show and would later be etched into the quint eyeshadow palettes.  Nowadays it can be found on the compact lids of Dior Forever products which are made from real fabric and stitching.  The whole thing was lightweight and I own quite a lot of these, my favourite (and most used) shown here, 296 Box-Office Beige, a beige nude with silver shimmer.

In 2012, Rouge Dior Nude launched. This was a small collection of 5 or 6 lipsticks which were named "Lip Blush, Voluptuous Care" for their balm/lipstick hybrid texture. The box reads "This rich creamy balm with a semi-sheer finish is boosted with a treatment formula, creating a "blush effect" for instant radiance. Lips are perfected, and the face and complexion are illuminated. Day after day, lips become more beautiful, hydrated, plumped and more firm - enhanced with new beauty". The casing differed slightly from my previous Rouge Dior, with a fancier domed, transparent "CD" on the lid, framed in silver. The Cannage patterning still appeared on the front and back, but the whole case was in the one colour. You'll also note "Dior" is etched into the lipstick bullet and my shade here is 263 Swan.

Rouge Dior Ultra Rouge is a style that's still available today after launching in 2018. I have several of these, I bought my first as part of the Power Look, Autumn 2019 collection. The packaging was similar to the revamped Rouge Dior case, but in a bold red. Accents are in silver with the Cannage pattern featuring on the band between the base and lid rather than the case itself. There's no mention of Dior on the packaging, just the "CD" in silver on the top of the lid (which you'll note is the newer linked logo, rather than separate letters). The shade stickers on the bottom now replaced with details printed direct onto the base. Though still reasonably lightweight, the casing does feel heavier than the previous Cannage ones. The lipstick itself comes in a slim, slanted shape as it's a longer-wear formula. These lipsticks were slated as being ultra pigmented with weightless wear. I do find them a tad dry to apply, but regularly use the shades I own. Note; they all have names beginning "Ultra...".

Here's the 2020 Rouge Dior lipstick, 481 Hypnotic Matte, from the limited edition Golden Nights collection. Similarly packaged to the Ultra Rouge with the silver Cannage print around the band and "CD" on top of the lid, with printed shade name and details on the base. The sleek, all-black case is actually bright red inside the lid and the bullet here is adorned with snowflakes to coincide with it's festive release. This Jewel Lipstick, Couture Colour, Comfort & Wear offers 16 hours of comfortable wear.

The past couple of years has been tough on lips in the makeup industry. With masks at the fore, it seemed pointless to wear something that wouldn't be seen and would transfer onto the inside of masks and smudge. For me, I went in the opposite direction. I've always loved lipstick the most out of all makeup items, it's the shoes of the beauty world for me and buying a new lipstick brings me joy that mascara and foundation simply doesn't. My time out of the house went from little to not-at-all during the pandemic, so I started making a point of choosing a different lipstick and gloss combo to wear each day. It's something I've kept up for a couple of years and although it may seem insignificant to others, I genuinely look forward to selecting and wearing a new duo each day. 

After several misjudged/timed releases (like the Olympic inspired collection that no longer coincided with the postponed Olympics) Dior, in 2021 just decided to go for it anyway and relaunched their Rouge Dior line with a newer, more sustainable approach. Peter Philips, having looked through the Dior archives, saw that original, refillable concept Christian Dior created some 70+ years earlier and decided this was the way forward for the modern Dior lipsticks. You can buy your chosen shade with the case or for slightly less, the lipstick refill itself, either once your colour has run out or to change into the refillable case. There's many finishes and colours, so you'll likely want more than one.  I bought a couple of refills last year and have two different cases to pop them into. Starting with the Rouge Dior, Star Edition in 626 Fame (Metallic) that launched last Autumn. The case is similar to the current regular line Rouge Dior, which now features this cut-out CD logo in the band at the front. The main line one has the Cannage print, the Star Edition does too if you look closely, but it's more jewel like. The lid is again red inside, the outer, black and the silver CD on the lid. The lipstick easily pops out and clicks securely back in place when switching for another. As this one was special edition, it featured a jewel like, star patterned bullet. It promises, 16 hour comfort with peony and pomegranate flower extract-enriched lip care. For beautified lips day after day.

The other and final one I have to show you today is from the Christmas collection last year titled, The Atelier Of Dreams. Every Christmas, Dior release a little case containing several shades of Rouge Dior and last year the case was beyond stunning (I'll have to show you it at some point). There's a main part, then a small lipstick holder on the side and this year a chain was included which you can use on the whole thing (as a handbag) or be really extra and carry the gold lipstick holder on your shoulder with the strap. In keeping with the newly updated refillable option, the set contained four refill colours and one lipstick case, specially engraved with the Avenue Montaigne boutique front, the theme of the collection. It's engraved on all sides, again with the Cannage band in silver and cut-out CD logo. The lid is red inside with CD on the top.  These lipsticks were also sold individually (linked above), shades were 466 Pink Rose, 858 Red Pansy, 873 Sparkling Peony and the one shown here, 862 Winter Poppy.  

Like I say, I have the two rechargeable cases now and many lipstick shades (and finishes) to slot into them when needed. Dior have just relaunched their Addict lipstick line and this too is in a refillable format. I'm definitely going to be buying some, as I've owned many of the Addict lipstick variations over the years and previously blogged about the Addict Gloss history for Flashback Beauty Friday.  I think for the 100th anniversary of Rouge Dior, they should release replicas of the original lipstick set.  Having seen the photos, they are stunning and very covetable, they'd be a hit.  Though I don't think I can wait that long and will I even be alive then...? I'd be in my 70's.  If I am still living, you can bet I'll still be wearing Dior lippies, of course I will!